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The Western Isles: Latest Posts

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West Loch Ollay (Crannog) — Fieldnotes

The following I was up bright breezy and picked up my 'water expert' friend for the first of two site visits.

North of the road to An Carra, on the A865, take the first road heading west, the the next road heading south before stopping at the first farm track that leads north.

Jump the gate then head straight north. When you reach the shore the 'high crannog' will be in front of you. Not much is left of any buildings that existed, but the tumble down proves that once upon a time something was there. Something that still is exists is a line of stones heading west, a possible mini naust.

Canmore also have a photograph that show this line of stones clearly, on my photographs, grass and weeds are growing and much more of the site can be seen.

It was explained to me that West Loch Ollay was gradually getting lower, vegetation was growing on parts of the loch. This site just highlighted it more accurately with more rocks and bedrock beginning to appear.

Not a lot to look at but interesting given someone had a knowledge of climate change.

Visited 10/08/2023.
drewbhoy Posted by drewbhoy
4th January 2024ce

Beinn A'Charra (Standing Stone / Menhir) — Fieldnotes

Not to be confused with North Uist's standing stone ot the same name, near the Committee Road, this is a stunning stone. The Who sang you can see for miles and miles and miles, you certainly can, west, north and south.

It stands, like an old wizard, at over 5m tall with a slight angle unlike its northern counterpart's blind drunk angle.

Another reason to visit this stone was to meet up with a friend who works at the waterworks and asked the question about water levels. To my surprise I was told that the levels that summer were well down, this explained why a lot causeways were appearing that in previous years could not be seen. An example of which I'd be shown the following day.

A tremendous stone.

Visited 09/08/2023.
drewbhoy Posted by drewbhoy
3rd January 2024ce

Loch Cnoc A' Buidhe (Stone Fort / Dun) — Fieldnotes

An incredible 83m long by 1.5m to 2m wide S shaped causeway connects the dun at Loch Cnoc A' Buidhe, which itself is just over 13m wide. A spectacular view, south west, as I was hastily walking back to the car for a discussion about water levels at An Carra Standing stone.

Closer inspection next time.

Photographed 09/08/2023.
drewbhoy Posted by drewbhoy
3rd January 2024ce

Reineval (Chambered Tomb) — Fieldnotes

The first impression that jumped into my head about Reineval was that it was 'this is Dun Bharpa's smaller relative'.

It is quite a bit smaller but equally impressive, being almost 23m wide and at its highest is over 3.5m. Like Bharpa it is surrounded by tall stones, 12 still stand, also like Barra's biggest cairn, standing on top of this only seems to encourage the wind to blow harder. However, from this vantage you can see that site has been well disturbed.

Very easy to find, it can be seen from the A865, I parked at the end of minor road and walked up the track past a couple of storage agricultural buildings to climb south up through soggy marshy ground.

It was a reasonably clear day so the views, as always, stunning!

Visited 09/08/2023.
drewbhoy Posted by drewbhoy
3rd January 2024ce

Cill Donnain (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork) — Miscellaneous

You can see the reconstructed outline of an Iron Age aisled wheelhouse which was excavated in 1990. Built in 200AD, this is a small example, with an internal diameter of 6.5 metres, but it lay on the edge of a much larger settlement. It probably had seven internal stone piers and a rectangular heart.

Car Park Noticeboard
drewbhoy Posted by drewbhoy
3rd January 2024ce

Cill Donnain (Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork) — Fieldnotes

Situated next to the museum car park at Kildonan is a reconstruction of an outline of an Iron Age Wheelhouse. Originally it would have been situated at Cill Donnain, near the vanishing standing stone at Sligeanach. However this one didn't escape and was captured in 1990.

A nice addition to the museum.

Visited 09/08/2023.
drewbhoy Posted by drewbhoy
3rd January 2024ce

Dun Vulan (Broch) — Fieldnotes

After the failed attempt to find the standing stone at Sligeanach, I headed north following the coastline to the Rudha Ardvule peninsula, the home to the broch / galleried dun Dun Vulan.

It must have been some place when built and would have been seen from afar. Despite being ruinous the 11m oval shape of the site can be seen, building work is best preserved in the North east arc which houses the entrance. A lot of work has occurred to clear stones from in and around the the site making it safer and easier to get around. A defensive wall has also been built to protect the broch from erosion.

Steel mesh gabions are also in place to offer further protection.

Impressive.

Visited 08/08/2023.
drewbhoy Posted by drewbhoy
2nd January 2024ce

Dun Buidhe (Broch) — Folklore

The Bean-nigh or Nigheag ('washer-woman or 'little washer') is a spirit who presides over those about to die, and washes their shrouds in lakes or rivers while singing a dirge. She may be so absorbed in her task that she can be taken unawares, and will then grant her captor three wishes: it used to be said of anyone particularly successful that he had got the better of the washerwoman.

A follower of Clanranald of the Isles was going home alone one night to Dun Bhuidhe when he saw the washerwoman by a ford, 'washing and rinsing, moaning and lamenting'. Creeping up unseen and unheard, he seized her:

'Let me go,' said 'nigheag,' 'and give me the freedom of my feet, and that the breeze of reek coming from thy grizzled tawny beard is anear putting a stop to the breath of my throat'. Much more would my nose prefer, and much rather my heart desire, the air of fragrant incense of the mist of the mountains.'

He said he would let her go in return for his three wishes: for the creek of his home town to have plenty of seaweed (used as fertiliser), for himself to get his chosen wife, and to know who the washerwoman's shroud was for. For Clanranald was the answer. The man took the shroud on the point of his spear and threw into the loch, then ran to his chief. Hearing the news, Clanranald ordered a cow to be killed and a coracle made from its hide, and when the boat was prepared he embarked on the waves, and never returned to Benbecula.

The man who brought the news was named Lad Of The Wet Foot, because, explains Alasdair Alpin MacGregor, retelling the story in 1937 from an earlier version, his duty was to walk in front of his chief and take the dew or rain off the grass. In this tale the Lad 'walked in front' in a more symbolic sense: his warning gave Clanranald the chance to prepare for his end with dignity, although death, once foretold, could not be escaped.

The Lore Of Scotland - A Guide To Scottish Legends

Westwood & Kingshill
drewbhoy Posted by drewbhoy
2nd January 2024ce

Loch Bornish (Cairn(s)) — Fieldnotes

After visiting the dun at Upper Loch Bornish I made my way back to minor road I'd left to continue westwards. Parking isn't a problem, St Mary's RC Church has a very handy carpark.

From the church head back to the track and keep going west to jump the gate. The cairn is small being 6m wide by 0.4 high. It is grass covered, as usual the local greenkeepers have done an excellent job, with two stones in the middle. These are probably what remains of a cist.

After a quick look round I decided to look for the standing stone at Sligeanach. Heading south I crossed over some sand dunes before heading across some very flat land. After looking around for ages I enlisted the help of two cyclists camping near the Hebridean Way. Even with their help it was a lost cause. The stone is probably hidden beneath the sands.

Nice to find the cairn, frustrating about the standing stone.

Visited 08/08/2023.
drewbhoy Posted by drewbhoy
2nd January 2024ce

Upper Loch Bornish (Stone Fort / Dun) — Fieldnotes

After visiting the stone circle at Loch Kildonan I headed back to the A865 and headed north, then took the next minor road heading heading west. Take the first road heading south and park at the first corner.

The causeway has taken a bit of battering but I was able to make my way across quite safely. Enclosures or sheepfolds have completely ruined the dun which has its wall best preserved in the north. From this it can be seen that the wall would have been about 2.5m wide, this surrounds the island which would have made the dun close to 10m wide.

Beautiful location, pity about the rubbish at the nearby empty house.

Visited 08/08/2023.
drewbhoy Posted by drewbhoy
2nd January 2024ce
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